An offally good place.
This is the Madrid equivalent of St John Bread & Wine, minus the price tag and the comfy surroundings. You find yourself sitting in a no-nonsense canteen in a residential neighbourhood off the beaten track. The menu is wall-to-wall offal, such as lamb's intestine, sweetbreads, tripe and other things Google couldn't find translations for. (Bring an appetite AND a sense of adventure). You order, and get handed a chunk of baguette with which to intrepidly make your offal sandwiches. It was actually utterly delicious - the food's delivered to your table piping hot from being freshly fried - and the staff were touchingly helpful, despite probably not being bothered by tourists too often.
As we left, a Spanish family spanning three generations came in for a meal. You've got to marvel at the gutsiness of an 8 year old girl being willing to eat, well, guts. The sign on the outside of the restaurant says they serve the typical dishes of Madrid. It's a most atypical dining experience, and one that will live in the memory a long time.
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