Thursday, 2 January 2014

Restaurant review: Fifteen Cornwall, Watergate Bay

A meal that cries out "you're on holiday" due to the location and menu, and rather less to do with the restaurant experience itself.

We tucked into: Cornish coppa (cured ham) and crab salad with galic aioli to start. Followed by a very generous serving of monkish, borlotti beans and spinach and a monster of a duck breast with cabbage and fried potatoes. 

Fifteeen is still a rather lovely thing, squatting as it does on Watergate Bay.

However, the d├ęcor now gone a bit too yuppie and consciously flash. Save for the very carefully printed “graffiti” above the open plan kitchen, it’s been denuded of its original flotsam & jetsam, driftwood vibe.

It used to be a bit more candlelit and dark woods, with artfully scattered seasonal produce in displays akin to a posh primary school’s harvest festival.

I don’t know whether they’ve now made it white and bright in order to separate it from Jamie’s Italians, but it feels not dissimilar to the room in which David Brent performs If You Don’t Know Me By Now –  all white voile curtains billowing from open French windows. 

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