Thursday, 2 January 2014

Restaurant review: Outlaw's Fish Kitchen, Cornwall

Set in Port Isaac in a 'can-this-be-real?' quaint old building, Outlaw’s Fish kitchen serves up small plates of delicious fish, sides, pudding and cheese.

Port Isaac is the village for which the phrase “picture postcard” was invented. It’s the location of the genial series Doc Martin, which prompts many a stout tourist to embark on the uphill walk to pose for a photo in front of his house.

And it was also the harbour village in which the Young’s fish ad was shot – the ‘When the boat comes in’ ad, sung so mellifluously by the men of the The Fisherman’s Friends sea shanty choir.

And it’s this inspiration Outlaw uses (and quotes) on his menu of extraordinarily good fish tapas -  “you shall have a fishy on a little dishy”. The philosophy in this place is very nice: the local fishermen’s catch dictates the menu. Thus, the menu changes regularly and dishes are cooked to order and come out when ready.

We had:
grilled brill with anchovy and tarragon butter
crispy squid
grilled John Dory on carrot, apple and curry
the Outlaw fish burger
a little gem salad
fennel gratin (I’ve dreamt about this side dish since).

Once that little lot was dispatched with, we shared burnt Earl Grey custard with gingerbread and quince, and two espressos.

And after that, we were in no fit state for the vertiginous pilgrimage to the Doc’s house, so we settled for a photo of the lobster pots on the harbourside instead.  

A delicious, and snuggly atmospheric lunch, and excellent, on-the-ball service.  

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