This place oozes ‘Mr and Mrs Smith’. A 17th
century converted watermill in a tiny village not far from Cambridge, where pig
farms appear to be the only sign of industry for miles.
It describes itself as rustic chic. Whilst
this is an admittedly well-worn concept, Tuddenham Mill does it very well.
It does it with a bit more capaciousness
than you might be used to.
We had a room of massive proportions in a
spick and span outbuilding, with a lovely terrace and complimentary sloe-gin.
You have to love a place that encourages
you to check in and drink sloe-gin before dinner time (or at least that’s how
we interpreted the freebie).
The restaurant here used to be presided
over by Paul Foster, who trained under Sat Bains. Paul Foster recently moved to
Mallory Court in Warwickshire – another chocolate box hotel in a rural setting
- and the kitchen is now run by Lee Bye, who was his sous chef.
The staff were pleasant throughout but there
was the odd service bum-note that gave the impression the hotel had only just
opened (it hasn’t).
For pre-dinner drinks we sat in the bar
next to the mill’s water-wheel. Whilst highly pleasing to the eye, the bar smelt
a little damp and our cocktail waiter didn’t know what a Negroni was, which
raised an eyebrow.
I had the glazed monk cheek with coppa to
start followed by the Dingley Dell pork chop.
Sartre had the beef shin carpaccio to start
followed by duck breast and roasted chervil roots.
The food is presented on plates that are
clean and pretty, and the ingredients were expertly handled and tasted local
and delicious.
Although there were about ten other tables
that night, the dining room’s downside is that it’s serious and hushed.
The food’s well worth the trip and
Tuddenham Mill is a pleasing little bolt-hole to discover.
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