Saturday, 5 July 2014

Restaurant review: The Berners Tavern, London

This is one of the new 'it' hotels, where George Clooney was recently snapped with his bride-to-be.

I've now eaten breakfast, lunch and dinner here - although not all in the same day, which would show a stifling lack of adventure - and I'm underwhelmed. Considering it's Jason Atherton - whose trio of Socials in Soho wow me, it's a misfire.

It certainly looks the part. A magnificent grand ding room, walls covered in a mosaic of oil paintings, and a sparkly Gatsby-style bar where pretty things drink pretty drinks.

The food is just a bit predictable. It might be that this is a hotel and needs to cater to a broader appeal than his other restaurants.

The service is really where my vexation finds its victim. For breakfast the other day, we had to wait 20 minutes for our order to be taken.  This despite some very good impressions of meerkats from several of us on the table. They repeatedly bring the wrong orders to your table - this happened twice.

And I'd avoid the main bar after midnight like the plague. Unless you're an overpaid financier or a lady of the night.

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