The Pig is a picture-perfect restaurant with rooms in the
New Forest. After a recent stay at Lime Wood, we visited for lunch before
heading back to London.
The Pig’s pull, apart from as a backdrop for endless photo
opportunities, is its 25 Mile Menu. And much of their produce comes from their
own stately grounds. They keep pigs, chickens and quails, they have an on-site
smoker, they forage, and keep a well-stocked kitchen garden with fruit cages.
The setting is a Boden photo shoot waiting to happen. The
Pig is immensely handsome. A sweeping driveway draws you towards an immaculate
mansion house. The interior is all bay windows, squashy sofas with gay
cushions, grand gilt mirrors and Victorian chequerboard flooring.
I half expected the large front door to swing open and
reveal a young Nigel Havers, in a 20s period drama, clad in tennis whites ready
for a game. It’s wholesome and handsome and oh-so-very British.
The visual loveliness continues into the restaurant, which
is housed in a restored glasshouse, complete with tumbling plants, mismatched
shabby-chic floor tiles and doors flung open to the kitchen garden.
And so, on to the food.
The menu is a delight, impishly categorised by headings like, ‘Piggy
Bits’ and ‘Literally Picked This Morning’.
Local makers are named and celebrated, such as “Mr
Bartlett’s chipolatas,” “Sopley Farm asparagus” and “James Golding’s smoked
salmon” (the latter being the Head Chef of The Pig, referring to his endeavours
at the smokery housed in the grounds).
There are great and unusual dishes on the menu, including a Bath
chap. A touch Simon Hopkinson, a touch Fergus Henderson.
I ate Asparagus and Goat’s Cheese on Sourdough Toast to
start. Humble ingredients transformed into something really delicious due to
their freshness.
I moved on to the Elephant Garlic Scapes and Pancetta Risotto.
A little too light on the pancetta for my liking – it was wafer thin and almost
melting into the risotto –
but still an artful, delicious plate of food.
Sartre had the Greenford Farm Pork Fillet in Vegetable Broth
with Toasted Hazelnuts.
Suppliers of The Pig's 25 Mile Menu |
The food is undeniably fresh, thoughtfully sourced and
thoughtfully prepared. Indeed, The Pig is faultless in idea and execution.
But, somehow, it’s a bit too pleased with itself to be entirely
likeable. A bit self-conscious, a little too primped and preened. I admit to
being exceptionally picky to find this fault, but something didn’t work for me.
The Pig has the feel of a place on best behavior. The restaurant equivalent of
Emma Watson, perhaps.
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